Kells, Ireland, is famous for one thing: The Book of Kells, a Latin version of the 4 gospels of the Christian New Testament: Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. In case you don’t know, they are stories of Jesus’ life. The pamphlet we received at Trinity College, when we saw the originals, said the Book of Kells “may have been composed in Kells or begun at Iona, Scotland, and then completed in Kells.” It dates to about 800 A.D.
Why is it so special?
It is an illuminated—intricately decorated—manuscript written on about 185 calf skins, and is so ornate it is considered one of the most important medieval artworks of Western Europe. Possibly Ireland’s greatest treasure, besides Guinness, it was painstakingly decorated in gold and a spectrum of bright colors.
Talented and dedicated monk/artists, possibly suffering in scratchy horsehair monastic robes, went wild with swan feathers as brushes and colored ink made from exotic dyes, to create what is without doubt a shocking (in a good way), mesmerizing, and lavish artwork including Christian symbolism and Celtic knots.
At some point, it also gained a jewel encrusted cover.
You cannot photograph the real thing in Trinity College, Dublin, but you can take pictures of facsimiles placed around the world.
We had not planned to visit Kells, but while driving, when we saw the turnoff (about an hour from Dublin) I said to Hoyt, “I have a feeling we’ll regret not going if we don’t.” Isn’t that a fun part of traveling? Unplanned adventures? Well, yeah, maybe sometimes…it was this time.
Tucked away in the lobby of the Headfort Arms Hotel in Kells, laying in a simple display case with no flashing arrow pointing at it, is a facsimile of this famous book. That’s where my little photos came from.
Even in that, the artwork was impressive. I suspect whoever made the facsimile produced it with the highest quality technology possible.
Also in Kells is an 18th century church and the remains of the monks’ settlement founded by St. Columba in the 6th century.
Markers called “High Crosses” from the 9th century stand guard over the cemetery. The day we visited Kells was overcast and gloomy, like the tower in the ruins.
Cocktail party fun fact to impress guests: Kells monks kept a herd of about 1,200 cattle. Lots of steak dinners! Plenty of milkshakes!
While traveling, we look for nutty signs and this place gave us a goodie.
I’ve had a long love affair with old manuscripts. You’ll know why when you read the book, Undertow, my personal story yet to be published.
Although Hoyt’s itinerary was well-planned and splendid, this detour was worth it.
BTW – maybe you’ve sensed this, but I consider these blogs as letters. When I write them, I truly enjoy “talking” with you, my company. Don’t be shy. Let me hear from you in the Comments section.
See you next time!
Ann M
Such a good idea to stop by Kells. The book is gorgeous indeed but in such a towny and touristy setting now; I love the village visit as a followup. I remember when my daughter went to Ireland with her dad – in high school, I think – she said I had to go to Ireland just to see the book!
Ned Kessler
I enjoyed this story, Charlene. It reminded me of the time Mary Ann and I saw that book and were deeply impressed. We were with a tour, so an unplanned side-trip, like yours, would not have been possible. I’ll look forward to your next installment!